Redding Reloading Equipment is an industry icon. A family owned company since 1946 it first operated out of a converted chicken coop. Now the company distributes its products worldwide.
In the mid 1960’s Redding began producing dies for rifle and pistols and as late as 1974, all dies were made on a hand operated turret lathe. Suffice it to say, the company has improved its dies and its manufacturing processes over the past 50 years. Their new “Premium Die Set” series is a case and point. In their own words it’s designed for “Utility Precision, and High Production”.
So what piqued my interest in this product?
I’d been using Dillon’s progressive press, the RL 550B, for a decade and its served me well. However over the past few years I’ve taken my reloading more seriously. I’ve become an accuracy freak. In order to print good groups it’s not only helpful to have an accurate gun and know how to shoot. Your ammo has to be extremely consistent and to get there, your reloading methodology has to be precise.
The first step in the road to precise reloading is to ditch the range brass and use brand new cases from a quality manufacturer such as Starline. (This article from Starline’s website offers insights into the rationale of using new brass for accuracy).
Dump that range brass and get some good stuff like Starline if you are serious about accuracy.
Shortly after I started loading large quantities of new Starline brass, I discovered the limitations of the Dillon system. It’s not that it doesn’t work. What I found is that you can improve it, by using Redding dies which are more refined and better engineered.
Enter Redding’s New Premium Series
It didn’t take me long to discover the advantages of using the Redding Premium dies.
For example, Redding’s seating die has a micrometer, so it’s easier to make fine adjustments to the case length. Dillon’s method is hit and miss.
I could live with this until I started loading the new brass.
I quickly realized that in order to load new brass, especially in combination with plated (Rainier) bullets, you need to chamfer/deburr every new case. It’s time consuming and frankly, a pain in the neck.
If you don’t smooth out the the jagged rim of the new brass, the case can stick in the sizing die and/or in the powder drop funnel. This means instead of a smoothly operating press, you’ll have to add extra pressure on the handle’s up stroke to pry the funnel and/or the sizing die from the case mouth. When the brass is freed, the whole platform abruptly pops up and shudders, usually resulting in powder spilling out from the case.
When you’re loading plated bullets, the process gets even more complicated.
If you choose not to go with the die set you’re going to have to deburr (with the above tool) every one of your new cases by hand or risk damaging the case and the bullet.
If you don’t smooth the case mouth and flare the rim of new brass to perfection, the jagged edge may cause the plated bullet to adhere to the side of the shell during the seating process. That can result in a dinged bullet and/or a crushed shell casing. I found loading new .45 ACP brass to be the most problematic but have also had issues with new 10mm and 9mm cases.
So is there a work-around for these issues?
In lieu of the old chamfer/deburr routine, Starline suggests treating the bullets with lubrication or running the brand new brass in a tumbler. Starline’s Process Manager and Chief Ballistician, Hunter Pliant, said that his company will modify Dillon powder funnels (at no charge) so that they run smoother with the new brass. (One would think that Dillon might make these changes so that customers would have this right out of the box).
Or, as I discovered, you can dispense with any prep on the new brass by using the new Redding Premium dies.
Integrating the Redding Dies into the Dillon Press
The Premium series consists of a three (3) die set which includes a Titanium Carbide Sizing Die, a Special Expander Die with a Titanium coating and a Seating Die with that includes a Bullet Seating Micrometer.
Thus Redding dies differ slightly in function from the Dillon set up so you’ll end up re-orienting your die setup.
Step # 1: Run the brass through the Redding sizing die. (Because I was using new brass, I removed the de-capper).
There are two ways to do this if you have a Dillon system.
The first method is to swap out the Dillon sizing and seating dies with Redding products. The Redding seating die doubles as a crimping die so you have the option of ditching the Dillon crimp die. That leaves you with two Redding dies in the Dillon toolhead (minus the expander die).
It works ok, but one of the Redding tech support staff had another option, which incorporated the expander die.
He suggested breaking down the reloading process into two steps, which necessitates using an extra Dillon toolhead.
The first step is simply resize (or if you like resize and add primers) to your cases. That means adding only the Redding sizing die to the toolhead. Take your new (or old) brass, resize and add the primer.
After you’ve got your cases prepared, add your second toolhead to the press. Your new configuration will consist of the expander, the existing powder drop, the seating die and a crimping die.
The expander (inside the expander die) has a titanium coated tip and works like magic. The tapered tip makes a perfect pocket for the bullet without over-flaring the rim.
Why do it this way?
There are a couple of advantages. This way you get to use all of the Redding dies. You’ll also break down the expanding and crimping stages into two separate functions.
Using Redding’s state of the art expander die in the first phase will create a properly sized bell on the rim. This is important, especially with new brass.
This die achieves several critical functions. It creates a smooth entry radius followed by the precise expanding diameter to accommodate the bullets. This also makes a perfect bearing surface in order to seat the bullet. This helps correctly align the bullet with the center line of the cartridge case which positions the projectile for proper contact with the seating micrometer. The last step creates a flare to further open the case mouth. This is key not only for plated bullets (which are really soft) but for cast bullets so that they do not shave lead during the seating process.
Step #2 is to run your brass through the toolhead with (from left to right) the expander die, powder drop, seating die (with micrometer) and the crimp die.
Once the proper flare is established the powder is dropped from the Dillon powder system. You’ll need to move the funnel up half a turn or so. You’ll want the funnel to make contact with the shell casing without changing the diameter of the bell. This will allow the proper amount of powder to drop accurately in the case.
When you reach the seating die you’ll also turn it up a full rotation so that it won’t crimp the case. You can then seat the bullet accurately with the micrometer. This takes the guessing out of the seating process and is a vast improvement over the Dillon technology.
The final stage is the crimp which is easier to adjust separately from the seating die.
The only issue I had was a couple of times the powder did not drop from the funnel. This was at the very beginning, when I was first tweaked the powder drop. I suspect this was because the funnel didn’t contact the case mouth with enough force. You’ll want to be certain you adjust the funnel to make firm enough contact with the case so that it drops the requisite amount of powder but not so strong that it expands the flare that you’ve already established.
Conclusion
After loading several hundred rounds of .45 ACP I can say conclusively that working with the Premium dies offers a much smoother, more consistent reloading experience that is just as fast or faster than the legacy system.
Voila! The final product. Starline brass topped with a Rainier 185 gr HP bullet.(Note that Rainier is out of business but you can get plated bullets from other sources such as Berry’s).
What I really liked was that I was able to load plated bullets with new brass with no chamfer/deburr hassle. The Titanium carbide dies and the Titanium coating on the expander do provide the lubricity that makes for a more productive and enjoyable process.
I really liked having the expander function separately from the powder drop. The problem with the Dillon system is that in order to adjust the size of the bell on your case you have to remove the two clamp screws on the powder assembly and then take a wrench to the toolhead to tweak the funnel “penetration”. If you don’t get it right the first time you have to repeat until you do.
With the Redding expander die, all you do is unscrew the collar atop the die and rotate top of the expander one way or the other. It’s much faster and more precise. The geometry of the “pocket” created by the expansion of the case is a distinct improvement over the Dillon powder funnel. The Redding die, which is tapered actually creates a tiny shelf on which to place the bullet without over flaring the rim.
I loaded both plated and classic 200 gr SWC bullets and will never go back to the older dies. Note that, if you want to incorporate the expander with the Dillon, you need an extra toolhead. It makes for a two step process but in my estimation, it’s well worth it.
Proof is in the shooting (25 yards off the bench). We used a Rainier plated 185 gr HP bullet over 5.9 gr of AA#2 in the Starline case.
Consistency may be the hobgoblin of little minds, to paraphrase Ralph Waldo Emerson, but if you’re shooting for accuracy, you need to be boringly thorough. That’s the way you make accurate ammo.
Going to the range for many people is a ritual not unlike a pilot’s flight preparation. Before takeoff you need to consult your checklist. Guns, ammo, goggles, tools, lube, brass catcher, spotting scope … and among the other accoutrement, hearing protection.
The standard practice is to insert foam earplugs and top them off with ear muffs. I’ve used several models, and have come to realize that they are not just a commodity.
So here’s the disturbing part. As I grow older, my hearing is diminishing. Hardly news to folks of a certain demographic but it’s something to watch because the loss of hearing can develop into serious trouble down the road.
Several studies suggest that hearing loss can increase your risk of cognitive abilities, and lead to dementia. Scientists have determined that a person’s chances for mental decline seem to go up the worse their hearing problems are.
The Roger 22 folds up nicely and doesn’t take up much room in the range bag.
Not a particularly appetizing scenario. Thus, protecting and preserving your hearing is pretty damned important.
Swap out your ear pads
So what to do?
In this piece we’ll look at a couple options.
The first, and least expensive route is to upgrade your existing earmuffs with Ready Up Gear SoftSeal Gel Ear Pads. You do this by taking your existing Peltor, Howard Leight, Walker or the new Roger 22 earmuffs and with a simple “hack”, turn them into a more comfortable and sound-resistant ear muff.
So what’s the secret sauce?
SoftSeal Gen Ear Pads are made from acoustic memory foam and are silicone gel filled. The upshot (no pun intended) is that the seal over ears is both tighter and more effective at blocking sound. They are manufactured to fit a number of brands.
You can also get SoftSeals from the 3M company which makes them for Peltor and other brands
The gel seals are “squishier”, ie more flexible than foam and more effective at closing up the gap around eye-pro temple stems.
The gel seals conform to the shape of your head. (What a concept!)
The gel seals are much more comfortable than conventional foam pads.
If you get sweaty, they are less prone to produce “hot spots” where they contact the head or ears.
The ear pads are wrapped in a super-thin polyurethane outer skin which ensures a relaxed, durable, easy-to-clean product.
You’ll need to literally hack the old ear pads from this ancient Peltor ear muff. The SoftSeal pads transformed this very inexpensive item into a usable tool.
Adding the SoftSeal pads are straight-forward:
You need to first pry the existing pads off the Earmuff that you plan to modify. You will need a decent knife with a sharp blade to place in the tiny gap between the pad and the cup. It seems a bit strange at first, kind of like cracking open a cell phone but you’ll need to leverage the existing pad out.
There is no question that adding them is a monumental improvement over the stock pad. I added some pads to an ancient, Peltor Optime 101, which is an entry ($17.50) level product. It was inexpensive but had pretty good ergonomics when it came to fitting over my ears. Just by adding the new pads it was converted into first rate ear protection.
This brings us to a consideration you need to make before purchase. How well does the existing earmuff comport to your ears/head? Does it exert enough lateral pressure at the correct angle to seal your ears? If the answer is yes, you have a winner with new softgels.
Add the new SoftSeal Gel Ear Pads and you’ll never go back. This is what they look like on the Roger 22. Note the tiny clips on the edge of the cup. Be careful not to break them.
Roger 22 Electronic Ear Muffs
There’s a ton of product out there in the Ear Muff universe. For something halfway decent at the entry level the minimum is $40 or so and that’s where the Roger 22s come in. What I like about them for starters is their low profile. Having a bulbous cup does allow for more filler to absorb sound and ostensibly, better passive protection. However, having a large cup can get in the way (as alluded to above) when shooting a rifle.
They Roger 22s do keep the noise down. They are designed for shooting with a NRR (Noise Reduction Rating) of 22dB. They offer Sound Activated Compression with 0.01s Reaction Time. That means when a gunshot goes off, the noise suppression goes on. If you want to actually hear the rangemaster, or your girlfriend, there are Omnidirectional microphones with a volume control.
There’s also an Auxiliary audio input (3.5mm jack). This means you can grab audio from a mp3 player, shot timer, or camera.
The Roger 22 has basic electronics. Everything works reasonably well but you’ll want to add the SoftSeal Gel Ear Pads on them.
Conclusion
I was pleasantly surprised how well the Roger 22 functioned, especially for the price. With the microphone on I could hear everyone around me and the noise suppression seemed to work, although frankly there wasn’t too much difference with the electronics on or off as far as diminishment of the gunshot sounds.
However, this wasn’t the stock Roger 22.
I added the SoftSeals. Adding the SoftSeal Gel Ear Pads is a game changer when it comes to passive protection.
Thus I strongly suggest dropping another $30 and acquire them.
As with the Peltor model, swapping out the pads on the Roger 22 involved removing the stock ear pads and swapping them out. The difference is that the Roger 22 has tiny plastic clips so you’ll need to snap the edge of the soft seal gel pads under them. The clips are a bit fragile so take care not to break them. Full disclosure, I broke a couple, but the new pad fit just fine.
With the SoftSeal Gel Ear Pads you’ll definitely be happier with the Roger 22 and you’ll be protecting something very important.
Both the Ear Pads and the Roger 22 ear muffs are available from Ready Up Gear.
Robert F. Kay is a columnist for the Honolulu Star Advertiser, a health nut, the author of two Lonely Planet guidebooks and Fijiguide.com.He appreciates a good pair of ear muffs on the range.
We wrote last week about House Bill 58, a “Frankenbill” made from bits and pieces of other bills. By putting those pieces into a bill that is still alive at the Legislature, those pieces are given new life.
It turns out that our lawmakers are not stopping at just one Frankenbill. Let’s look at House Bill 468.
This bill is called “Relating to the Hawaii Employer-Union Health Benefits Trust Fund.” In its present form (House Draft 1), it would take away Medicare Part B reimbursement for employee spouses for employees hired on or after July 1, 2021. At least one of the public worker unions testified against it. So, although it passed the House, the bill languished in the Senate.
At the same time, an Administration bill from the Department of Budget and Finance, Senate Bill 1087 / House Bill 933, would have suspended existing laws calling for annual required contributions to the Employer-Union Trust Fund for fiscal years 2024 and 2025. House Bill 933 received no hearing in the House and died relatively early in the session. The Senate bill sailed through the Senate and crossed over to the House, where it received no hearing and died.
Now, the Senate has published a proposed Senate Draft 1 of House Bill 468 that looks a whole lot like Senate Bill 1087 without any of the material that House Bill 468 used to have. By the time this article goes to press, the Senate Committees on Labor, Culture and the Arts and Ways and Means would have heard the bill and made the switcheroo.
Some of you may have heard the term “gut and replace.” That term is used to describe how a bill’s contents are entirely replaced with material bearing little if any resemblance to what the bill used to say. It is one form of Frankenbill, and that is indeed what we have here.
Why is this bill so critical? Imagine what would happen if you had a mortgage and then stopped making payments on it for a couple of years. When you finally got around to making payments again, the debt would still be there and the interest would have racked up. Paying off the mortgage would probably take quite a bit longer than the two years that were deferred. If, for example, you had a $500,000 mortgage at a 30-year fixed rate of 4%, you would be making principal and interest payments of $2,387. If you stopped making payments after year 5 and took a break for 2 years, your balance due would grow from $451,000 to $487,000, after which you would need 340 more monthly payments at the same amount, or 28-1/3 years, to pay off the loan. That would mean you would have to make 3 years and 3 months of extra monthly payments.
What is EUTF? The State of Hawaii has promised to provide health benefits to its long-time employees for the rest of their lives. EUTF is a fund set up to fulfill that promise. According to the most recent actuarial report from EUTF’s website, the present value of the benefits the State has promised to its eligible retirees exceeds the expected value of the plan’s assets by $11.5 billion. The $11.5 billion is like a debt that the State and its taxpayers must pay.
The Medicare Part B benefits, which House Bill 468 addressed before being turned into Bride of Frankenbill, accounted for $3.23 billion out of the $15.4 billion in actuarial accrued liability.
Lawmakers, we ask again – what can we afford to do, or not do?
Most of us have heard of “Frankenstein,” a novel written in 1818 by Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley. The story’s protagonist, Dr. Victor Frankenstein, created a creature by assembling bits and pieces from cadavers and then bringing it to life using some unexplained method. (Mad scientists have to have their trade secrets!)
A “Frankenbill” or “Frankenstein bill” is one that is made by cobbling together bits and pieces of other bills, especially bills that have already died in our legislative process. By engrafting those bits and pieces into a bill that is still alive in the process, those pieces are effectively given new life.
In our Legislature, the Senate passed an omnibus tax increase bill, Senate Bill 56, which we in this column have called the “Enola Gay” bill. It contained massive increases in income tax, both individual and corporate; wholesale 2-year suspensions of exemptions in the general excise tax; and a hefty increase in the conveyance tax.
After a public uproar over the Enola Gay bill, leaders in the House of Representatives moved swiftly to stomp on the bill. The House Speaker’s office gave the bill a quadruple referral, meaning it had to clear four different House committees in a relatively short time if it were to survive. That made the bill as good as dead, according to House Majority Leader Belatti. As of the Second Lateral deadline of March 25, none of the four House committees to which the bill was assigned had bothered to hear it. That bill is now officially dead.
But, in a hearing notice released on March 25, the Senate Ways and Means Committee declared its intention to stuff some of the major pieces of Senate Bill 56 into House Bill 58, a bill that at the time of crossing over to the Senate only provided for the temporary reallocation of conveyance tax revenues to pay debt service that the State owes on its general obligation bonds. The Proposed Senate Draft 1 of this bill contains new parts temporarily repealing the general excise tax exemptions and juicing up the conveyance tax for properties over $4 million.
Another proposed new part would reduce the Hawaii estate tax threshold. The estate tax threshold is the size of a decedent’s estate below which no estate tax is owed. Once the threshold is passed, the estate tax ramps up very quickly. In 2020, the Hawaii estate tax threshold is $5.49 million while the federal estate tax threshold is $11.58 million. The bill would reduce the Hawaii threshold to $3.5 million.
According to the website of the good government organization Common Cause Hawaii:
[O]ur Legislature is not supposed to pass a bill which addresses 2 or more unrelated subjects, and is not supposed to pass a bill whose subject has not had 3 separate readings in the State House and 3 separate readings in the State Senate. The purpose is to ensure a fair process, where the public and legislators have time to review and comment on proposed legislation.
Unfortunately, legislators use deceptive practices such as “gut and replace”, when a bill is stripped of its original content and replaced with an unrelated bill’s contents, and “Frankenstein bills” which is when bills encompassing various subjects are cobbled together into one bill.
This new Frankenbill is scheduled to receive a hearing in the Ways and Means Committee on March 31st. The hearing would have been held just before the publication date of this column. What did our lawmakers do? Did they create the Frankenbill, perhaps to be used as a bargaining chip in the waning days of this legislative session? Did they stuff this bill or other bills with the stratospheric income tax increases that have brought us national and international attention, and not the good kind?
Covid has impacted nearly every facet of our lives.
Even the way we dress.
According to Fast Company, the fashion industry revenues dropped about one third of last year. Nowadays people simply aren’t buying clothing in the quantities they used to.
There was an exception. Consumers have actually increased spending on “casual” and “active” wear.
Since we are not going to the office (nor too many other places) we don’t need Gucci or even more mainstream ‘business’ accoutrement if we’re conducting meetings in front of a screen.
What we do need is clothing that can be used in any number of environments. Whether it’s a hike up the Mau’umae trail atop Wilhelmina Rise or a visit to the Hawaii Kai Costco, we need clothing that’s both durable and practical.
The Evolution is a go anywhere pant that looks as good as it feels.The two-way stretch of the fabric will allow you to move quite freely.
Welcome to fashion in the Covid era.
Of course, the time will come when we all will be vaccinated and will want to board airplanes, congregate and socialize. In meantime it’s all about social distancing enjoying the great outdoors.
A new era for active wear
Back in the day people preparing to tour a national park might visit Eddie Bauer, LL Bean and the like to acquire the proper gear. While these giants of outdoor clothing are still with us, over the last decade or so a number of smaller companies that make specialized techwearor technical apparel, have entered the fray.
These firms, often mom and pop operations, design garments with special fabric, construction and properties that allow for breathability, movement, water-resistance and comfort.
Both the Evolution and the AT Slim have water resistant fabric. Better living through chemistry…
Western Rise, founded by former outdoor guides, Kelly and Will Watters certainly falls into that category. In the bad old days, according to Watters, “Clothing options were sport-specific, over branded, and fit poorly so we carried multiple changes of clothing for each activity throughout the day.”
The Watters decided to address this by founding a clothing line built for durability and comfort that can be used for nearly every occasion.
Unlike an REI or a North Face, Western Rise (which is of course much smaller) carries a focused range of bottoms, tops and accessories such as socks. As one reviewer put it, “they focus on quality over quantity”.
They only make four types of pants–all with slightly different applications.
The philosophy is to put all your marbles into a limited product line and produce something stellar.
What a delightful concept.
The Evolution has a 5 pocket pattern, not unlike a jean but definitely a sleeker look.
The Evolution
I had the opportunity to look at two Western Rise products–the most formal, the Evolution, and the most casual, the Diversion.
I live in Hawaii and spend a great deal of time in Fiji so having a pant that is light, breathable and moisture wicking is paramount. This is how Western Rise describes the Evolution pant (which retails at $149) and why I chose to evaluate it.
You can literally wear them anywhere, whether it’s a business meeting (which I admit are few and far between nowadays) or a foray over to the rifle range.
The Evolution and the Diversion have zippers in their back pockets which make themideal for travel. (This is the Evolution pant.)
And yes, they are sturdy enough to bring on the trail but they should not to be construed as hiking pants.
Think of them as a very refined, non-denim, five pocket jean. The material is soft to the touch, a bit stretchy and perfectly tailored.
On the Evolution line they offer a “regular” or a slim version.
If you’re a bit bulkier go for the regular which has plenty of room and enough stretch in the fabric to do just about anything you want. They are not baggy by any means but tend to drape over your lower extremities, feeling much like a nice pair of suit pants.
I’m on the short side and the inseam is pretty much fixed so I did have to hem the pants. Not the end of the world but you need to know that unless you’re 5’11 to 6’2 you’ll have to see your favorite seamstress.
Then there’s the waist.
It’s often a pain in the rear end when it comes to finding pants that will fit my skinny (I’m about a 29 1/2″) waist. The 30 inch was a it tad too big with the Evolution but perfect with the Diversion.
Tthe Evolution pant has more of a straight leg look that kind of drapes over you, not unlike a suit pant.
The Acid Test
I wore the Evolution non stop for several weeks and found them very comfortable. This was during Hawaii’s winter, which this year was quite humid. The pants did breathe as the promised. They have the lightest of the entire line and work well in our climate.
They are offered in khaki, navy, olive, charcoal, blue grey and shadow. I have the olive, a rich color that is more than presentable in every situation I encountered.
I haven’t taken them to Fiji (yet) but plan on doing so when it’s possible. They do have a nice travel asset–a zipper on right rear pocket, perfect for stashing your passport and perhaps some Yankee dollars. The right front change pocket is actually big enough to park your cell phone.
Talk about casual? That’s why I like my Diversion pants.With a four-way stretch in the fabric, they offer more latitude. (The Evolution is better suited for more formal settings).
Diversion (Slim Pant)
The main differences I could ascertain between the Diversion and the Evolution are the fit and the fabric, which is slightly heavier on the former. Another difference: The Diversion pants (which retail for $138) have a four-way stretch vs. Evolution’s two-way.
The stretchier fabric provides a slightly softer feel.
Their slimmer, tapered fit will “embrace” your legs and are reminiscent of the “pegged pants” of yesteryear. For me the tapered fit is excellent.
I can get away with wearing these and at the risk of not sounding humble, they do flatter my body. What the heck? If you’ve got it, flaunt it.
You can get them in flat black, dune and grey.
Both styles of pants (this is the Evolution) feature a change pocket that will handle your cell phone.
As with the Evolution pants, I wore them everywhere (except on the trail). I preferred them a bit to the Evolution pants only because I usually operate in a more casual world.
But that’s just my sense of aesthetics.
What about Travel?
As a travel writer I’m always thinking in terms of what I should be taking with me on the road or, to wear on an airplane. Both are excellent for this purpose but Evolution has a leg up if you want to look dressy.
Got to have the right physique for these slim Diversions. Reminds me of the pegged pants that the “cool guys” would wear many moons ago.They are extremely comfortable and excellent for travel duty.
Seated in business class, no problem looking the part. They are refined enough that you’ll “pass” as a pillar of the community.
The Diversion also has a zippered pocket (right rear) for keeping your passport or money secure.
Interwoven with elastane, the double-weave canvas on the Diversion has four-way stretch and drape. It’s rugged enough to handle any activity and has a “self-cleaning” water repellant.
It should be noted that Western Rise also makes an AT Slim pant which has the heaviest fabric of all and their Spectrum Jogger, for around the house–not a as good a prospect for travel.
The AT Slim is best described as something you’d wear at or around town but not as dressy as the Evolution. (Somewhere in between Evolution and Diversion).
I think it would also be a great travel candidate–it has the zipper back pocket as well. If you’re shopping for durability, this is the one Western Rise promotes.
In summary, a lot of thought and “engineering” has gone into the Western Rise lines. They are a testament to minimalism. You don’t need a dozen different pants in your closet (or in your suitcase) to look like a million bucks, at home or on the road.
Robert F. Kay is a columnist for the Honolulu Star Advertiser, a health nut, the author of two Lonely Planet guidebooks and Fijiguide.com. (He appreciates a good pair of pants).
A little more than a month ago, we ranted on about Senate Bill 815, the “maintenance of effort” bill, that would ensure funding for the Department of Education (DOE).
After some refinement after going through several legislative committees, it now works like this. The bill creates a “public education stabilization trust fund.” If the appropriations to DOE in any legislative session are lower than the appropriations to DOE in the preceding legislative session, then the difference is scooped out of general excise tax collections and dropped into the fund. DOE can then spend the money in the fund to make up for the funding shortfall. (Which means the fund is not really a trust fund, but a special fund, under criteria being applied by the State Auditor.)
DOE, which is strongly supporting the bill, argues that there are many federal acts and grant programs, including the CARES Act, which themselves have maintenance of effort requirements. In other words, if the State does not maintain a consistent funding level for education, the federal government will reduce or eliminate its funding. “This measure would safeguard the Department’s ability to fulfill these obligations,” DOE testified.
The maintenance of effort requirements in the CARES Act are imposed by section 18008 of the Act, which apply to both Governor’s Emergency Education Relief (GEER) grants and Elementary and Secondary School Emergency Relief (ESSER) grants authorized by the Act. The U.S. Department of Education stated that a State can demonstrate support of education in different ways. USDOE said that it is purposely leaving he statutory term “support for higher education” undefined by regulations so that States have flexibility in determining how it is satisfied.
Other federal education statutes have maintenance of effort requirements, such as the Individuals with Disabilities Education Act (IDEA) for the support of individuals with disabilities. Even there, the law and regulations have flexibility in the way States can satisfy the requirements and have a mechanism by which the State can apply for waiver of the requirements for reasonable cause, such as a precipitous decline in resources following a natural disaster.[1]
The maintenance of effort provisions of IDEA were enacted at the end of 2004.[2] In other words, those provisions have been around for more than 16 years and it does not seem that Hawaii has had a problem following them. No budgetary trickery like the gimmick proposed in SB 815 was needed to comply with the maintenance of effort requirements in IDEA. The USDOE’s guidance shows that no gimmick is required to satisfy the CARES Act either.
The HSTA, however, in its testimony in support of the bill, argues that the budget gimmick is not only necessary, but doesn’t go far enough. It notes that part of the bill would allow the Governor to suspend the maintenance of effort requirements if we have a sudden and severe decline in revenue; exceptional circumstances like a natural disaster; or a sharp decline in student enrollment. HSTA wants the suspension provisions out of the bill, arguing that the only time the bill would be needed is when there is an economic downturn. (Although the underlying message seems to be that they want everyone except them to suffer during economic calamity.)
The reality is that future legislatures are not, and cannot be, bound to the budgeting decisions of today. If a future legislature really wants to lower the budget of the Department of Education, perhaps in a year like this one where there simply is not enough money to go around, it can repeal the provisions introduced by this bill. The mechanisms in this bill are not necessary, and they complicate and obfuscate the budgeting process. And if we do enact them, we create a precedent for other departments to follow. Perhaps the Department of Health would be sponsoring a similar bill next year, the University of Hawaii in the following year, and the Department of Human Services in the year after that.
With that said, do we need to make budgeting more difficult by enacting a bill like this?
[1] See, for example, 20 USC section 1412(a)(18); 34 CFR section 300.163.
In this country, the Swedish outdoor equipment concern, Fjällräven, is not (yet) a household name. In Europe, it’s long been an iconic brand, analogous to Patagonia.
Founded in 1960 by Åke Nordin in the basement of his parent’s home in Örnsköldsvik, on Sweden’s High Coast, the company has sold products in the US for a number of years. Pronounced “F-yah’ll-rah-ven” (which means as ‘Arctic Fox’) its products are sold in over 40 countries.
Like others in the outdoor clothing industry, Fjällräven is a member of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition and the Fair Labor Association — industry-wide groups of leading clothing and footwear companies and NGOs. They share information and best practices, and work towards reducing the environmental and social impacts of their industry, worldwide. This is an important point because the pants I reviewed in this article were made in Vietnam.
The tailoring on the Abisko Midsummer Trousers has a very appealing European look. You can really wear this pant anywhere.
Fjällräven tends to be more expensive than domestic brands but so are Mercedes or BMW. It’s the same principal, you get what you pay for. (More on that later).
With the advent of Covid, where sales of garments have generally diminished, Fjällräven and other outdoor manufacturers have seen an increase in sales.
It’s no wonder. People are spending more time “recreating” outdoors and since consumers of a certain demographic have more disposable income, they’re not adverse to dropping a few more bucks on good quality, brand name gear.
Fjällräven translates from the Swedish as “Artic Fox”
That dynamic has resulted in a windfall for the Swedish company, not to mention higher end domestic manufacturers.
Checking out Fjällräven “product”
Full disclosure. I’ve always had a kind of infatuation with European sports clothing ever since I was kid. My father had an old ski jacket from Germany which had a kind of timeless aesthetic.
Fjällräven embodies that same kind of classic feel. A company representative I spoke to described it this way, “Fjällräven isn’t the most technical brand, but rather an experiential brand and touching and feeling the brand is important to allow users (their customers) to fall in love with the heritage and products.”
The Abisko Midsummer Trousers is are both durable and impeccably made.
Fjällräven makes all kinds of stuff—bags, tents, backpacks, and a host of men’s and women’s apparel. It’s not that the company doesn’t use space age materials for their products and doesn’t do R&D like any company but they would rather be known for making durable, practical products rather than gimmicky “technical” stuff.
Case and point: On the “Fjall” website you can read about “Grandma’s Jacket” a decade’s old Fjällräven garment which was passed down to a younger generation family member: https://foxtrail.fjallraven.com/articles/grandma-jacket/
Fjällräven is built for guys (and gals) who really do make it out to places like the Arctic Circle–for serious outdoors people. The description on the website describes one of their garments as “Comfortable and warm hunting trousers”.
The fabric on the knees (beginning with the front pocket area) and butt are a slightly darker tone than the other fabric. The darker material is a rip stop fabric which helps prevent egregious damage if you get a tear in those areas.
I’m not a hunter but I like a company that doesn’t worry about sounding politically correct about their trousers.
Trail and road testing
I was able to test drive out two pair pants. Like others responding to the Covid era, I wanted something that I could use in another number of circumstances whether hiking the Mau’umae trail above my home, walking the dog or even venturing into Costco. And yes, I could even wear the pants (or not) at a Zoom meeting.
Of course, like everyone else, you want something that looks cool and lasts.
One last caveat. Keep in mind that I live in Hawaii thus the pants I’ve reviewed would be considered lightweight and suitable for either summer on the mainland or tropical climes.
On the hem of the pants is a drawstring much like you’d find on a pair of US Army(ACU) trousers.
Fjällräven describes its Abisko Midsummer Trousers as “Light, well-ventilated and packable trekking trousers. Perfect for warm climates.”
That pretty much sums things up which makes them ideal for the Aloha State. The material called G-1000 Air Stretch is a combination of cotton and recycled polyester (made from old plastic bottles!) with a wee bit of stretch. The knees are articulated and the crotch is gusseted. Both add strength to the design and allow for movement.
According to Fjällräven the material is “strong, resilient, quick drying and moisture wicking.”
If you’re hiking or climbing these are ideal.
The pants will both allow you to high step or move as you like and are super breathable so even on a humid day in Suva, you’ll be able to move and groove with the best of them. There are even a couple of zippers on the thighs that you can open up, almost down to your knee, and let the air flow through your pants.
The slightly more tapered High Coast Lite Trousers are light and quick-drying, suitable for everyday use and travelling in warm climates.
On the hem of the pants is a drawstring much like you’d find on a pair of US Army trousers. Thus if you put your hiking or climbing boots on your pants won’t slip down over the back of your heels. Just cinch them down. You don’t have to roll them up.
Another interesting design facet is that the fabric on the knees and butt are a slightly darker tone than the other fabric. How come? That’s a rip stop material so if you do get a rip in these spots it will prevent excess damage. The pants are impeccably made as mentioned above, in Vietnam.
Travelers will appreciate that there are three zippered pockets (left, right and right thigh) so that you can keep your valuables safely stashed. There’s also a cargo type pocket with two snaps on the left hand thigh. Inside the right hand thigh pocket is a mini mesh pouch for change, keys or whatever so you don’t have fish them out of the larger compartment.
I have say something about the fit. I’m ecstatic about it. I have a “compact” frame and compared to most guys a tiny waist—29 inches. It’s nearly impossible to find a 29 inch waist in a typical American size but not so with the European scheme of things. Suffice to say, these pants fit me perfectly. Note that these trousers also come in a (new) zip off version so that you can easily convert them into shorts.
The back end of the High Coast Lite trousers have pockets with snaps.
Another option for light hiking/everyday “summer” trousers are the High Coast Lite Trousers which the company describes as Light, quick-drying stretch trousers for everyday use and travelling in warm climates.
Again, well said Fjällräven. Constructed with the same G-1000 Air Stretch cotton and recycled polyester material, these are not called “Lite” for nothing. There are five pockets, two standard front and back plus a fifth on the side of your right thigh. It’s too small for a passport or a mobile device but you can stash a credit card, change or keys.
For that reason I don’t think they are ideal to get on an airplane with but if you don’t need a zipper for a hike you’ll be just fine. Like the Abisko Midsummer Trousers they have a drawstring. All of the inner pockets on both pants are constructed with mesh so they are going to be durable.
There’s a small zippered pocket on the right leg to stash your credit card, bills or coins but not too much else.
The High Coast Lite Trousers have a cleaner, leaner (more tapered) look than the Abiskos which make them a bit better for every day use. However, if you wanted to throw them in your bag as hiking pants or as spare run-around trousers they will not take up much room nor will they weigh you down. They also have the advantage of drying rapidly.
And yes, these trousers fit me like a proverbial glove.
If you want to hike or hang out with your sophisticated European cousins, you’re not going to go wrong with Fjällräven.
Robert F. Kay is a columnist for the Honolulu Star Advertiser, a health nut, the author of two Lonely Planet guidebooks and Fijiguide.com. (He also likes crossover wear).
We in Hawaii are getting national (and some international) attention.
But not the good kind.
Witness an editorial from the Wall Street Journal that was published on March 12, 2021, titled “Confiscation in Paradise: Move to Hawaii, pay the nation’s highest state income-tax rate.”
The state Senate voted Tuesday to raise the top income-tax rate to 16% from 11%. This would leap above the 13.3% California takes from its highest earners, or the 12.7% that New York City dwellers pay. Oh, and Hawaii’s top rate would kick in at a mere $200,000 of income. It would also slam many small business owners who pay taxes at the individual rate. As if they haven’t suffered enough during the Covid lockdowns.
The bill would also raise Hawaii’s capital-gains tax to 11% from 7.25%, a blow that will fall heavily on the state’s retirees. The top rate on corporations and real-estate investment trusts would rise to 9.6% from 6.4%. Legislators are shaking every conch shell in a mad grab for new revenue. …
Hawaii’s new tax increases would supposedly last through 2027, taking far more out of the economy than needed to make up for a sluggish 2020. But “temporary” tax hikes almost always become permanent as politicians rush to spend the new revenue and refuse to cut spending when the higher tax rates are set to expire.
According to a 2017 article by the Brookings Institution, the overwhelming majority of businesses are not C corporations subject to the corporate income tax. About 95% are in passthrough entity form where the business owners, rather than the business entity, are taxed at their individual income tax rates. So, a steep hike in the individual income tax will fall upon businesses, and we can expect that the tax bite swiftly will be reflected in the prices of goods and services that those businesses provide. Lots more of us will feel the bite than just “the rich.”
And even if people directly affected by the tax hikes can’t pass them on, another option they have is to “get out of Dodge” – jump on a plane and move somewhere else. Our state population in the past few years has been going down, not up, and a study from the American Legislative Exchange Council sums it up by saying: “Unless high-tax states mend their ways, low-tax with pro-growth policies will benefit from the resulting flow of capital and people.” The result? “Data clearly shows that low tax burdens enhance a state’s chances of performing well economically…. On the other hand, a high tax burden reduces a state’s chances of performing well. Of course, other policy variables impact economic performance, but tax burden is most consequential.”
With all of these prospects for negative economic consequences, do we really want to be in the national spotlight for having the absolute, tip-top, undisputed first place ranking for the highest tax rates imposed on individuals?
In the couple of weeks before the Legislature’s “First Decking” deadline, legislators were hearing tax-related bills, not only the “Enola Gay” bill we discussed last week. Different tax increase bills of all stripes were being considered. The testimony in response to those bills, interestingly, contained relatively few lamentations from a beleaguered public weary of tax increases.
Rather, many testifiers were in support.
There were those who sought to punish those who were surviving – a kind of crabs-in-the-bucket argument. “It makes sense to ask those who are fortunate enough to be doing well in this economy to pay more,” one testifier said, “in order to close the deficit without slashing the critical government services that so many struggling working families have come to rely on.” Ah, so struggling working families have an entitlement? “It is time for Hawai’i to tax the rich,” another said. As if our government doesn’t do that already.
Other testifiers phrased it in terms of a moral imperative. “These changes are needed to ensure that the wealthy pay their fair share,” said one. “By asking the wealthy and profitable corporations to pay their fair share in taxes, we can prevent cuts to essential services and protect our communities,” exhorted another.
Another went into more detail, saying that the tax increases were directed at “higher earning individuals and companies, many of whom have experienced no job loss and even profited over the past year with stock market gains and Hawaiʻi’s surging real estate prices. The wealthy and corporations also got significant tax breaks at the federal level in 2017, and can afford to share more in state-level taxes.” Whether a particular taxpayer was wealthy or a corporation seemed to be enough to trigger the testifier’s ire, even though that taxpayer may have had overall losses for the year like many of us have had, may or may not have taken advantage of the so-called 2017 tax breaks, and might not have had any real estate or stock market gains to speak of. This kind of argument results when generalizations are layered on top of other generalizations. Its connection with reality fades with each additional layer.
Instead, consider this, proponents of tax hikes. Suppose your tax hikes snag a rich person. Do you seriously think that this person will just stand there and take the hit? Here are some of the things that such a person can do.
If the person is rich because he or she runs or has influence over a business, the prices of goods or services that business offers can be expected to rise. This is especially true if lots of people in similar industries are affected by the hike. If, for example, doctors are asked to cough up tens of thousands more per head in taxes, it won’t be long before the price of health care in Hawaii goes up. That bite will then be felt by much more than just the person the tax hikes are aimed at.
If the person is sufficiently fed up with, or otherwise can’t handle, the tax climate in Hawaii, he or she can get on a plane. A business can close its local branches. Our declining population numbers over the last several years and the increasing number of business closures tell us that this is not just theory. So, what happens when the cost of government is the same or greater but the number of persons paying that cost drops? The cost of government increases for those of us who are left.
In any event, taxing the “rich” can’t be viewed in isolation. Taking lots of money out of the economy through the tax system will have a ripple effect that will be felt by everyone. It’d be like shooting yourself in the foot. So, the next time you hear the argument, “Soak the rich!” ask yourself if this really is the path we want to tread.
It’s not an exaggeration to say that the Sig Sauer P210 is the most sought after 9mm target pistol in existence. It started its life, humbly enough, as the sidearm for the Swiss Army and police in 1949. Not exactly a Hollywood sendoff, but the Swiss are not generally flashy types. They are however, precision engineers who know a thing or two about metallurgy and design. (Ever heard of Swiss watches?)
This gun is so well engineered that to this day, it’s still considered the gold standard for accuracy and reliability in 9mm. It’s capable of getting two inch groups at 50 yards, which is no mean feat for any handgun, much less a 9mm semi-auto.
I was first introduced to the P210 a few years ago when I spent an afternoon shooting a Swiss-made model at Kokohead Range. I was immediately smitten by its balance and trigger.
The older models are not easy to find and you’ll spend a minimum of $3000 for the privilege of owning one. The good news is that the P210 is now being manufactured in this country with prices starting at around $1600. (More on that later).
History
Charles Gabriel Petter’s Modèle 1935 pistol–progenitor of the P210. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia
Development for the gun began before the Second World War with the idea of replacing the venerable Luger Parabellum 06/29, which had been in service since 1900. It was originally licensed from French-Swiss designer Charles Gabriel Petter’s Modèle 1935 pistol.
Fans of plastic guns will definitely find this gun alte Schule–old school. You won’t find any tritium or fiber optics on the P210, just a post and notch. The magazine catch on the original model is at the heel of the frame—which is where they put them in the good old days.
It’s a single-action pistol, with a magazine capacity of eight rounds of 9 mm, 7.65 mm, or .22 LR. (The new Target model has a capacity of 10 rounds). The slide and frame are machined from blocks of steel, which makes it heavy side but durable and of course, more expensive to produce than the modern “wonder nines”.
One of the P210’s unusual features is that the slide is seated inside the frame rails rather than on the outside as is generally found on pistols derived from John Browning’s design.
American Incarnation of the P210
Understanding the demand for this item, management at Sig Sauer decided in 2010 to produce a new version manufactured in Eckernförde, Germany instead of the SIG plant in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, Switzerland, where the gun was traditionally made.
The mag release button is one of the key improvements over the original model which had the mechanism on the heel of the frame.
However, Swiss and German made goods tend to be quite expensive in this country. In January, 2016 SIG Sauer announced they would move production of the P210 to their Exeter, NH, factory. This is not one of these deals where the firearm is assembled from parts made overseas. All the parts, with the exception of the grips, will be made in the USA. (The German factory will continue to product P210s for the European market).
The P210 Targetmodel is one of two versions released in this country. The other is the P210 Standard which has different grips and sights.
The company also plans to release a US-made Super Target, a 4″ Carry version and the Standard (5″ barrel with fixed sights) models all in 2018.
The trigger breaks at 3.5 lbs and is superb.
Although the latest incarnation of the P210 resembles its Swiss Army predecessor, the manufacturer made a few visible tweaks. Instead of the old fashioned magazine catch, the new version uses a button-style, frame magazine catch. There’s also an elongated ‘beavertail’ much like those found on 1911 and SIG Sauer Elite pistols. There’s also a modern looking slide catch and 1911-esque safety.
Tim Butler, Sig Sauer’s product manager, told me that while the U.S.-made models will share the same DNA as the European models, there are differences.
In the “same DNA department”, all U.S. models will use the controls designed after the German version of the Super Target pistol.
The rear sight adjustments are crisp and easily manageable. Just a screw diver will suffice.
Butler said the U.S. and German version differ with barrel lock up. The Swiss and German P210s use a traditional, multiplelug barrel design (as in the 1911 Browning Hi-Power). The U.S. barrel locks up in the ejection port the same as SIG Classic pistol, the P220, P225j, P226, etc.
The reason for the design change was because of a manufacturing process. In order to manufacture the 1911 lockup in a six inch slide you enter from the front with a very long tool to cut the lugs. The distance causes deflection with the cutting tool and could cause potential dimensional inaccuracy. Thus changing to the lock-up improved the manufacturer’s ability to hold the tight tolerances needed without extensive barrel fitting.
The slide on the P210 sits inside the frame. Slide to frame fit is phenomenal. Amazing they can do this on a production gun.
One thing you notice straight away after field stripping the gun is how incredibly precise the slide to frame fit is. Just moving the slide along the rails you note there’s hardly any lateral movement. The tolerances are very tight yet the slide glides effortlessly. Same with the barrel to slide fit. Very little wiggle. There is no way you can achieve the same kind of fit on a 1911 with out the efforts of a gunsmith.
It amazes me that that Sig Sauer can do this is on a production gun and keep the costs reasonable.
The hammer box was also modified for the U.S. iteration. The hammer box is where the hammer and sear are housed alone with supporting parts for the function. Butler said that for the the U.S. version “we added adjustability that is set at the factory and non-user adjustable. This was done to eliminate hand fitting of components.”
Sig Sauer’s factory Elite V-Crown 124 gr. JHP ammo is extremely accurate. If you don’t handload, this is the ticket.
The Target version, which I tested, has a 5″ barrel, adjustable rear sight, magazine with a metal base plate and a target-style grip with a palm swell that is ergonimically correct. MSRP is $1600 for the 5″ barrel and $1800 for the 6″ model. Street price is in the $1500 range. (The European versions are $2100 and $3200 respectively). (The “Super Target” will have additional modifications including a 6 inch barrel, a 1911-style thumb safety and wood grips with integral magwell funneling).
Shooting the Sig P210
So why is this pistol, which began its life in the midst of the Second World War, so accurate and well balanced? (We know it wasn’t built with space age materials nor designed with Cad/Cam).
There are a couple of reasons but the first that jumps out at me is the very low bore axis which helps make it intrinsically easier to aim.
A short explanation. “Bore axis” refers to the relationship between the barrel of the handgun and the shooter’s hand. Thus a “high” bore axis means that the barrel is positioned high above the top of the hand and “low” bore axis means, that it’s closer.
I managed to get this group off the bench (at 25 yards) the first time out using the Sig Elite V-Crown ammo. It illustrates the enormous potential of the P210.
So what’s the advantage?
First off is recoil management. The closer the slide is to your closed grip, the more energy you’re going to absorb and hence, and the less muzzle flip you’ll have.
Thus low bore axis means less movement and easier target recovery. If you’re shooting hot 9mm loads, exaggerated muzzle flip is especially noticeable. Therefore, the lower the bore axis the less perceived recoil and the less snap-back. In the case of the Sig P210 what also helps steady the gun even more is its old fashioned steel construction. The added mass makes it even less prone to flip than a plastic gun.
The other benefit to low bore axis with this gun, is superb balance. It doesn’t feel “top-heavy”. Aiming the gun feels quite natural.
My go-to load for the 115 gr Zero bullet is 5.4 gr of Silhouette powder. This was shot off the bench at 25 yards.
If you combine the low bore axis, “pointability”, a truly great trigger and some shooting chops, the equation equals great accuracy. I was able to pick up the P210 and begin shooting really good groups fairly soon. The key of course, was squeezing the trigger just so. There’s a bit of takeup follow by a crisp, dependable break at 3.5 lbs.
Feeding the Sig P210
Of course, you’re not going to shoot good groups without the right ammo. Since the P210 is one of the most accurate production handguns in the world, I though I would do it justice by testing both factory and hand loads. The 124 gr. factory rounds came from Sig Sauer, which several years ago branched into the ammo business to complement their “hardware”. We tested two varieties–of 124 gr. ammo: their full metal jacket, Elite Ball and their jacketed hollow point, V-Crowncartridges.
The applications? Elite Ball is more for practice. The V-Crown is listed as defensive ammo but it’s extremely accurate and makes a great target round. I’ve used it up to 100 yards, consistently whacking an 8 inch gong with my red-dot mounted 9mm 1911. Admittedly, it’s harder to do with the Sig P210 which of course only comes with iron sights.
The Elite Ball ammo is less expensive and also quite accurate, but not in the same league the hollow-point.
The 115 gr. JHP from Zero is bullet is nasty accurate.
Handloading–Beginning at Zero
For this exercise I started with Zero bullets, the brand name product from a company called Roze Distributionout of Cullman, Alabama. A family owned business, Roze has a well deserved reputation for manufacturing quality products at a very reasonable price. I’ve used their Zero bullets for years–158 gr hollow points for my 357, 148 gr wadcutters for my .38 and in this case, 115 gr and 124 gr jacketed hollow points for the Sig P210.
Zero bullets are not as expensive as other products but their quality is definitely commensurate with Nosler, Barnes and the other high-end competition.
If you want accuracy, use brass that will give you consistent quality. Starline is my favorite.
For the brass component, I use Starline, which I’ve load with great accuracy both for 9 mm and .45 loads.
A word to the wise, if you’re going to shoot a handgun as accurate as the P210, use a high end brand of brass. With scrounged range brass you’re using a jumble of headstamps, all with slightly different dimensions and varying quality. Buy definition, every round you crank out will be slightly different in size and it’s impossible to make uniformly consistent ammo.
That means your accuracy will suffer and there’s no reason to handicap yourself. Spend a few bucks and you’ll notice a world of difference. You’ll also thank yourself.
True Blue worked well with Zero’s 124 gr hollow point bullet. Meters great too.
There are many great powders on the market that work well with the 9mm such as Titegroup, 231, HS-6 and the like. My go-to powders for 9mm are Silhouette (for 115 gr HP) and True Blue which works great for 124 gr HP. Both are from Western Powders.
Prior to this article I’d done a great deal of experimentation with both of the above products with a 9 mm 1911 and these particular powders proved to be just as effective with the P210–even at 50 yards.
The True Blue load I used for the 124 gr Zero bullet was 5.6 gr. The Silhouette load for the 115 gr HP Zero bullet was 5.4 gr.
After shooting hundreds of rounds of both 124 and 115 gr handloads I would have to say that the P210 “preferred” the 115 gr bullets over the 124 gr. It was consistently easier for me to get good groups with the former.
That said, the gun performed equally well with the 124 gr Elite factory ammo from Sig. I simply could not get the same performance out of my 124 gr handloads. (Back to the laboratory).
Silhouette used to be known as Winchester Action Powder (WAP) and works great with 115 gr Zero bullets.
Be mindful of pressure when loading 9mm
One or two words of caution when reloading for 9mm. The small case size, means even a minor increase in powder can cause a dangerous pressure spike. For example, if 5 grains of powder is the maximum load, and you increase it ½ grain, that’s a 10% increase. In a small case, this variance makes a significant difference. With a larger case or a milder load, this usually isn’t a problem.
Conclusion
The P210 is a perfect blend of old world design and new world manufacturing processes.
It’s incredibly accurate, cycles like a Swiss watch and is easy to shoot. At an MSRP of $1600 (and street price of just under $1500) it’s not for everyone. Nor will the old fashioned iron sights please some of the younger folks who are used to red dots or glass. They will really test your skills. It’s soft shooting and has all components of a hand-fitted target gun–precision barrel to frame lock up and that gorgeously smooth slide to frame fit. The gun can shoot a number of different loads–even light loads because it’s so buttery smooth.
The European-made wooden grips are flawless.
So how does it compare to the old version? My colleague in Hawaii, Brian Takaba the manager (and gunsmith) at X-Ring Security in Waipahu said the “new P210 has much smoother, flowing lines than the original. It also has all the things I wish the old one could have–mag release button, thumb safety and beaver tail.”
I believe the American-made version is commensurate in quality with the European model. What’s more, this new version provides an enthusiast the opportunity to buy a handgun of legendary prowess at a reasonable price. If you consider that a 9mm 1911 that may not shoot as well as this pistol will set you back $2000, the P210 is an American-made bargain.
A final note is a shout out to my friends at X-Ring Security in Waipahu for handling the FFL duties. X-Ring has a wonderful selection of items, a modern, indoor range and full complement of services including a gunsmith. They are easy to work with.
The author is not responsible for mishaps of any kind, which might occur from the use of this data in developing your handloads. It is the user’s responsibility to follow safe handloading guidelines to develop safe ammunition. You use this data at your own risk. No responsibility for the use or safety in use of this data is assumed or implied.
Product Review: Redding’s New Premium Dies make reloading more productive and enjoyable
Redding Reloading Equipment is an industry icon. A family owned company since 1946 it first operated out of a converted chicken coop. Now the company distributes its products worldwide.
In the mid 1960’s Redding began producing dies for rifle and pistols and as late as 1974, all dies were made on a hand operated turret lathe. Suffice it to say, the company has improved its dies and its manufacturing processes over the past 50 years. Their new “Premium Die Set” series is a case and point. In their own words it’s designed for “Utility Precision, and High Production”.
So what piqued my interest in this product?
I’d been using Dillon’s progressive press, the RL 550B, for a decade and its served me well. However over the past few years I’ve taken my reloading more seriously. I’ve become an accuracy freak. In order to print good groups it’s not only helpful to have an accurate gun and know how to shoot. Your ammo has to be extremely consistent and to get there, your reloading methodology has to be precise.
The first step in the road to precise reloading is to ditch the range brass and use brand new cases from a quality manufacturer such as Starline. (This article from Starline’s website offers insights into the rationale of using new brass for accuracy).
Dump that range brass and get some good stuff like Starline if you are serious about accuracy.
Shortly after I started loading large quantities of new Starline brass, I discovered the limitations of the Dillon system. It’s not that it doesn’t work. What I found is that you can improve it, by using Redding dies which are more refined and better engineered.
Enter Redding’s New Premium Series
It didn’t take me long to discover the advantages of using the Redding Premium dies.
For example, Redding’s seating die has a micrometer, so it’s easier to make fine adjustments to the case length. Dillon’s method is hit and miss.
I could live with this until I started loading the new brass.
I quickly realized that in order to load new brass, especially in combination with plated (Rainier) bullets, you need to chamfer/deburr every new case. It’s time consuming and frankly, a pain in the neck.
If you don’t smooth out the the jagged rim of the new brass, the case can stick in the sizing die and/or in the powder drop funnel. This means instead of a smoothly operating press, you’ll have to add extra pressure on the handle’s up stroke to pry the funnel and/or the sizing die from the case mouth. When the brass is freed, the whole platform abruptly pops up and shudders, usually resulting in powder spilling out from the case.
When you’re loading plated bullets, the process gets even more complicated.
If you don’t smooth the case mouth and flare the rim of new brass to perfection, the jagged edge may cause the plated bullet to adhere to the side of the shell during the seating process. That can result in a dinged bullet and/or a crushed shell casing. I found loading new .45 ACP brass to be the most problematic but have also had issues with new 10mm and 9mm cases.
So is there a work-around for these issues?
In lieu of the old chamfer/deburr routine, Starline suggests treating the bullets with lubrication or running the brand new brass in a tumbler. Starline’s Process Manager and Chief Ballistician, Hunter Pliant, said that his company will modify Dillon powder funnels (at no charge) so that they run smoother with the new brass. (One would think that Dillon might make these changes so that customers would have this right out of the box).
Or, as I discovered, you can dispense with any prep on the new brass by using the new Redding Premium dies.
Integrating the Redding Dies into the Dillon Press
The Premium series consists of a three (3) die set which includes a Titanium Carbide Sizing Die, a Special Expander Die with a Titanium coating and a Seating Die with that includes a Bullet Seating Micrometer.
Thus Redding dies differ slightly in function from the Dillon set up so you’ll end up re-orienting your die setup.
Step # 1: Run the brass through the Redding sizing die. (Because I was using new brass, I removed the de-capper).
There are two ways to do this if you have a Dillon system.
The first method is to swap out the Dillon sizing and seating dies with Redding products. The Redding seating die doubles as a crimping die so you have the option of ditching the Dillon crimp die. That leaves you with two Redding dies in the Dillon toolhead (minus the expander die).
It works ok, but one of the Redding tech support staff had another option, which incorporated the expander die.
He suggested breaking down the reloading process into two steps, which necessitates using an extra Dillon toolhead.
The first step is simply resize (or if you like resize and add primers) to your cases. That means adding only the Redding sizing die to the toolhead. Take your new (or old) brass, resize and add the primer.
After you’ve got your cases prepared, add your second toolhead to the press. Your new configuration will consist of the expander, the existing powder drop, the seating die and a crimping die.
The expander (inside the expander die) has a titanium coated tip and works like magic. The tapered tip makes a perfect pocket for the bullet without over-flaring the rim.
Why do it this way?
There are a couple of advantages. This way you get to use all of the Redding dies. You’ll also break down the expanding and crimping stages into two separate functions.
Using Redding’s state of the art expander die in the first phase will create a properly sized bell on the rim. This is important, especially with new brass.
This die achieves several critical functions. It creates a smooth entry radius followed by the precise expanding diameter to accommodate the bullets. This also makes a perfect bearing surface in order to seat the bullet. This helps correctly align the bullet with the center line of the cartridge case which positions the projectile for proper contact with the seating micrometer. The last step creates a flare to further open the case mouth. This is key not only for plated bullets (which are really soft) but for cast bullets so that they do not shave lead during the seating process.
Step #2 is to run your brass through the toolhead with (from left to right) the expander die, powder drop, seating die (with micrometer) and the crimp die.
Once the proper flare is established the powder is dropped from the Dillon powder system. You’ll need to move the funnel up half a turn or so. You’ll want the funnel to make contact with the shell casing without changing the diameter of the bell. This will allow the proper amount of powder to drop accurately in the case.
When you reach the seating die you’ll also turn it up a full rotation so that it won’t crimp the case. You can then seat the bullet accurately with the micrometer. This takes the guessing out of the seating process and is a vast improvement over the Dillon technology.
The final stage is the crimp which is easier to adjust separately from the seating die.
The only issue I had was a couple of times the powder did not drop from the funnel. This was at the very beginning, when I was first tweaked the powder drop. I suspect this was because the funnel didn’t contact the case mouth with enough force. You’ll want to be certain you adjust the funnel to make firm enough contact with the case so that it drops the requisite amount of powder but not so strong that it expands the flare that you’ve already established.
Conclusion
After loading several hundred rounds of .45 ACP I can say conclusively that working with the Premium dies offers a much smoother, more consistent reloading experience that is just as fast or faster than the legacy system.
Voila! The final product. Starline brass topped with a Rainier 185 gr HP bullet. (Note that Rainier is out of business but you can get plated bullets from other sources such as Berry’s).
What I really liked was that I was able to load plated bullets with new brass with no chamfer/deburr hassle. The Titanium carbide dies and the Titanium coating on the expander do provide the lubricity that makes for a more productive and enjoyable process.
I really liked having the expander function separately from the powder drop. The problem with the Dillon system is that in order to adjust the size of the bell on your case you have to remove the two clamp screws on the powder assembly and then take a wrench to the toolhead to tweak the funnel “penetration”. If you don’t get it right the first time you have to repeat until you do.
With the Redding expander die, all you do is unscrew the collar atop the die and rotate top of the expander one way or the other. It’s much faster and more precise. The geometry of the “pocket” created by the expansion of the case is a distinct improvement over the Dillon powder funnel. The Redding die, which is tapered actually creates a tiny shelf on which to place the bullet without over flaring the rim.
I loaded both plated and classic 200 gr SWC bullets and will never go back to the older dies. Note that, if you want to incorporate the expander with the Dillon, you need an extra toolhead. It makes for a two step process but in my estimation, it’s well worth it.
Proof is in the shooting (25 yards off the bench). We used a Rainier plated 185 gr HP bullet over 5.9 gr of AA#2 in the Starline case.
Consistency may be the hobgoblin of little minds, to paraphrase Ralph Waldo Emerson, but if you’re shooting for accuracy, you need to be boringly thorough. That’s the way you make accurate ammo.
That’s why the Redding Premium Die series is the way to go.
If you have any questions, Redding has a first class tech support system. The guys are experienced, patient and wonderful to work with.