by Lorna Thornber
Originally from the UK, Jonty Crane (above) spent 14 years in New Zealand before moving to one of the least-visited countries on the planet. But with its world-class snorkelling, diving and hiking, he reckons Timor-Leste deserves to be on more travellers’ bucket lists.
What inspired your move, and how long have you been there?
My partner and I took a long trip in 2023 and were looking for opportunities when we returned to change our lives.
We had been aware of Volunteer Service Abroad (VSA) for a while. They’re New Zealand’s largest and most experienced volunteering agency working in international development. They had two suitable roles for my partner and I. We applied and six months later, in February 2024, we arrived in Timor-Leste.
Cristo Rei Monument, Dili
Timor-Leste (formerly known as East Timor) is at the southernmost edge of the Indonesian archipelago, about 400km north of the top of Australia. It is the poorest country in Southeast Asia, and has the most oil- and gas-dependent economy in the world.
The majority of the population live in the countryside and survive on subsistence agriculture. After centuries of rule by the Portuguese, Japanese and Indonesians, it became an independent country in 2002. There was significant conflict and unrest in the 1990s and 2000s, but it has been a stable and democratic state for decades now, and has one of the lowest crime rates in Southeast Asia.
Can you tell us a bit about where you live?
We live in Dili, the capital of Timor-Leste. If I ignore all my senses other than sight I could almost be Wellington, with lush, bush-clad hillside stretching down to a city of 300,000 people on the waterfront.
However the 30-degree-plus temperature, 80% humidity, noise of barking dogs, crowing roosters, horn-heavy traffic, and the absence of gale-force wind reminds me that I’m not!
The couple live in the capital, Dili, with excellent snorkelling and hiking just 20 minutes away by public transport.
We live in a house built during Portuguese colonial times close to Dili Cathedral, which the Pope will visit in September this year.
Did it take long to settle in?
It took a few months to adjust, in particular to the climate and how a very different culture works. VSA provide amazing support. Their in-country team organised our accommodation, and helped us with getting ourselves set up. Timor-Leste can be quite bureaucratic, so having local support has made a huge difference.
What do you do there?
My partner is volunteering in Climate Change Finance with Oxfam. I’m volunteering at HAMNASA, a local health NGO, and at the Ministry of Tourism.
For HAMNASA I’ve been helping with organisational development, training, and refreshing their strategic plan. For the Ministry of Tourism I’ve been creating online resources at exploringtimor.com, writing two guidebooks, creating promotional materials, training local tourism providers on social media and internet promotion, and working to establish signed hiking trails in Dili.
Timor-Leste is one of the least-visited countries on the planet, with few people having heard of it, and even fewer knowing what there is here for tourists, so there is plenty to do!
What are the biggest advantages of living there?
Timor-Leste is very safe, the people are lovely, and there is so much to do and explore.
Dili is a wonderful city – small enough to easily get around, but large enough to have a cinema, decent restaurants and shops.
For coffee lovers, some of the best in the world is grown here. For hikers, the highest peak, Mt Ramelau, is nearly 3000m above sea level. For divers and snorkellers, Atauro Island is a paradise, and only 90 minutes by boat from Dili.
There are a few hundred expats living in Dili, a mixture of volunteers and people working for international and local NGOs and United Nations’ organisations, forming a good-sized community. Everyone I work with though is Timorese, and it has been a great experience getting to know them, and feeling integrated to a degree into the local community.
Jonty with local guides on Atauro Island
Any disadvantages?
Timor-Leste is classified by the UN as a least-developed country, so there are definite challenges. Certainly it takes longer to do things here, and the climate can be exhausting at times. Shopping can be a mission, requiring visits to multiple places to buy what you need, and often things can disappear from the shelves.
The internet is one of the slowest in the world, though it will improve next year with the installation of a fibre optic cable. You very much need to embrace Timor-Leste for what it is, and take everything as a memorable experience, whether good or bad.
How expensive is it compared to New Zealand?
Surprisingly expensive! Timor-Leste uses the US dollar, and like New Zealand (but more so), it is a small, remote country with high shipping and logistics costs.
Internet is about US$30 (NZ$49) a month. Rent, paid for by VSA, is about US$600 a month. Electricity, also paid for by VSA, is about US$80 a month. Local food is relatively cheap, but anything imported is more expensive than in New Zealand.
Diving on Atauro Island.
How do you spend your spare time?
The diving, snorkelling and hiking here is world-class. Within 20 minutes by public transport from where I live I can snorkel above beautiful reefs, hike up nearly 500m-high hills, or do both!
There is much to explore around the country, including Portuguese colonial history, local cultural events, and beautiful beaches (though many are home to crocodiles).
There are 14 municipalities in Timor-Leste, and I’ve visited nine to date, with plans to visit the rest in the coming months. It is a small country (about the size of Hawke’s Bay), but the quality of the roads means it can take up to eight hours to get to more remote areas.
What is the local delicacy and would you recommend it?
There are some interesting Portuguese influences and ‘fusion’ restaurants serving something different to the typical Southeast Asian diet of rice and vegetables. I’m a big fan of the fruit markets, where six passionfruit, a fresh coconut, or a bunch of delicious local bananas can be bought for US$1 each.
Easiest way to get around?
Microlet or motorbike. Microlets are local minibuses that cost US$0.25 a trip and are super-frequent between 6am and 6pm. Downsides are that they really small inside and the music can be deafening.
Riding a motorbike here is exhilarating and terrifying in equal measure, but the best way to get out of Dili to explore the rest of the country. Road infrastructure is highly variable, from decent sealed roads to rough dirt tracks, but thankfully there isn’t that much traffic outside of Dili.
Dili is home to lots of good restaurants, Jonty says.
Best time of year to visit?
The dry season runs from June to November. It is best to visit at the start when the landscape is still green and lush, but there is no rain. Between mid-October and the end of November, blue whales migrate through the Wetar Strait between Dili and Atauro Island, which is a major draw for visitors.
What are the top three things you recommend visitors check out?
Atauro Island is home to some of the healthiest and most bio-diverse reefs in the world. Within five minutes’ boat ride from shore, you can be diving or snorkelling in warm, clear, and life -filled waters. There is also incredible hiking around the coast and through the mountainous interior.
Cristo Rei is Timor-Leste’s most obvious landmark, a 27m high statue of Jesus (one of the tallest in the world) at the end of Cape Fatacuma in Dili. There are incredible views of the city from the summit, and the surrounding area is excellent for hiking and snorkelling.
The National Resistance Museum is the best place to understand the history of Timor-Leste. The museum tells the story from pre-colonial times, but the focus is on the brutal 24-year-long Indonesian occupation.
Family and friends aside, what do you most miss about home?
Reliable and fast internet. Being able to buy everything I need for a week from a supermarket, rather than going to three different shops three times a week. Being cold!
Expat Tales is a Stuff Travel series featuring Kiwis who’ve made new lives for themselves overseas. If you’d like to take part, email us at travel@stuff.co.nz